Thursday, January 20, 2011

A Country House in Taroudant

Taroudant is a bit like Marrakech was many years ago, perhaps, long before the boom that some say has destroyed it. It's an hour or so inland of Agadir, on the edge of the desert and the climate, especially in the autumn and spring, is delightfully dry and sunny. This is the entry hall of a private villa just outside the city walls; remarkably, it was built only a few years ago.

It's a jewel of Islamic/Berber simplicity in which every element has its roots in Moroccan tradition. And while it might be more inspired by the palaces of Marrakech than those of Taroudant it doesn't seem at all out of place in its desert landscape and with its sensitive use of locally sourced materials, such as these charming hanging lamps.



The owner of this elegant palace, though European, has spent much of his life in North Africa and he has great knowledge of the decorative arts employed in creating this Moroccan country house. The central courtyard retains elements of the Islamic order and yet it's all reduced to an almost contemporary purity here.

In classic Islamic gardens the central fountain is always small and quiet, in contrast to the European model, which is big and audible. Typically they are fashioned in the shape of lotus leaves, as is this one. I think you could almost say that this tiny interior courtyard qualifies as a garden even though there isn't a single plant in it. The garden element that it does have, which makes it a garden to my mind, is sky.


The rear garden, with the Altas mountains in the distance, is planted out entirely in citrus and now, in the winter months, the perfume of orange blossoms fills the air. At the bottom of the garden is a kind of folly with a loggia, which looks back to the main house.



The interior is enriched with the occasional Berber antique, such as this doorway refashioned as a hall closet.

European touches appear in the living quarters. This window, much more French in style than Moroccan, still succeeds in harmoniously fitting in.

But this beautiful doorway in the garden pavilion is purely Berber and purely Taroudant.

15 comments:

columnist said...

Wonderfully elegant by its simplicity, which imparts great peace and calm.

Concrete Jungle said...

Makes me want to start building again...beautiful tones of green!
Thank you.

Michael B. Gordon said...

Talk about capturing a sense of place. Lovely.

Anonymous said...

Do you think YSL or Grange may have been inspired by this house for YSLs villa in Marrakech, or are its elements typical? That tiled entrance is perfection! Thank you for the tour.

little augury said...

Near perfection, what is missing I can not think.

Desert Dweller said...

What a great series of spaces - Phoenix Home and Garden did a feature on Moroccoan design a couple years ago, but this is even better.

The plant-less courtyard, and citrus grove and Atlas Mountains focal point are incredible!

Laurent said...

A more fundamental contribution to one's understanding than you might have expected; but such is the distance of frame of reference of this reader from this posting, that the largest impression is made by the phrase, "this Moroccan country house." One has never seen a Moroccan house from the perspective of its remove from a primary house, but more specifically, a house closer to society or to some form of endeavor. To see this villa as a country house in that sense, works to suspend a great deal of judgment in favour of the fantasy indulged by the occupant. The windows, in this sense, were very telling, and possibly did not require your informed defense ...

Next, the offering of "sky" as a defining element of a garden is also fundamental.

With great respect, I happen to be less captivated by certain aspects of this construction than I am by your placement of it in these and other established perspectives. To me, it does look very-very new; to me, the folly seems a misfire of monumentality, unless it does stand apart in a way the photographs don't show.

But I did not come here to critique. I came to be delighted and was detained by being taught. Where I come from, that's a very nice way to live.

lindaraxa said...

Takes my breath away, especially with the smell of orange blossom permeating the air. That is by far, my favorite fragrance and the one I sprinkle on my sheets!

VoiceTalk said...

The chiaroscuro effect within these spaces in striking. Wonderful!

D. Scott Tjaden said...

The doorway used to create a closet was brilliant. Such great texture and interest in the room. I love this post, Paul.

La Vie Quotidienne said...

This brought back wonderful memories to me...many years ago when my husband was a Fulbright professor we lived in Morocco, it was the most wonderful adventure. Beautiful villa.(-:

The Down East Dilettante said...

I'm weak at the knees---totally my idea of perfection

my favorite and my best- MFAMB to you said...

me too!!! holy balls!! this place is sexytime heaven.

nouvelles couleurs - vienna atelier said...

Thank you for this beauty...

Abdellatif Battah said...

One day I will visit Taroudant. I might pass by this beautifull Riad. Chapeau :)